Our name may be the Lampshade Co, but without lightbulbs we’d be nothing. From dimmable GLS onto golf bulbs and globes, we have every brightness, size and shape – each sourced from trusted manufacturers (for maximum lifespan and lifetime hours upwards of 15,000 hours).
While lightbulbs illuminate our designer style and lampshade swagger, we know that the technicalities can confuse – the wattages, energy ratings and lumens. Then there’s the lightbulb finish, not to mention LED versus filament, and OH the fitting (if we had a pound for every question about fittings, we’d be rather well off).
So allow us to explain the ins and outs. By the end of this fast-fire lightbulb guide, you’ll be positively switched on when it comes to the world of lightbulb terminology and technology. Wattage: The wattage of a lightbulb indicates how much electrical power passes through it (and so is also an indicator of how bright the light bulb is). Every lampshade and light has a maximum wattage – don’t use anything over this, or you run the risk of a fire.
Lumens: For years consumers purchased lights according to wattage alone, but now there’s a new kid on the block – lumens, which measures light output, rather than electricity.
Energy rating: Running from A* to G, this indicated how planet-friendly the lightbulb is. A* is reserved for the most energy-efficient lightbulbs, while G is for the least.
Lightbulb finish: Simple enough, the finish describes the effect, if any, of the glass.Lightbulbs can have a clear finish, or frosted.
LED versus filament: Filament lightbulbs are the original form of lighting, and LED is the new generation – often boasting lower energy consumption and a broader spread of light.
Fitting: Your lamp or light socket is designed to accept certain light fittings – they can be screw in, or feature prongs that fit into a plastic socket. Here’s a list…
Bayonet Cap (B22 or BC) | Edison Screw (E27 or ES) | Small Edison Screw (E14 or SES) | Small Bayonet Cap (B15d or SBC) | GU10| MR16 (GU5.3)